TL;DR

High refresh rates often are not enabled automatically because the OS default mode (often 60Hz) will work with any cable/adapter/dock/monitor settings.

If 144Hz / 165Hz are not available, it’s likely either the wrong port / cable / adapter, a dock that limits bandwidth, mirrored displays, or an option within the OSD of the monitor (like a high-refresh specific mode not being enabled).

Windows: Settings → System → Display → Advanced display → “Choose a refresh rate.”

macOS: System Settings → Displays → select the display → Refresh Rate (or “Variable / ProMotion” on supported setups).

Do verify the result in OS settings and also an independent check. Something like TestUFO’s refresh rate test.

Seeing numbers like 143.98Hz or 59.94Hz is normal due to the way some displays report TV-compatible timings.

What 144Hz / 165Hz actually means (and what it doesn’t)

Refresh rate (Hz) is how many times per second the display can draw the same image. A 144Hz display should refresh up to 144 times per second, a 165Hz display up to 165. Higher refresh means that scrolling of all types can feel smoother, and gaming can benefit from reduced motion blur and perceived input lag (assuming your PC and waking connection can do that mode reliably).

Perhaps counter-intuitive nuance: your 165Hz monitor doesn’t force everything to 165 FPS. Your refresh rate is a display mode; your frame rate ( FPS) is from what your GPU, and game, can render.You can run your 165Hz monitor at 165Hz even if a game is only rendering at 90 FPS, though it won’t look like true 165 FPS (that is, it won’t get more frames per second). Variable Refresh Rate (VRR) tech like Adaptive-Sync/FreeSync/G-SYNC Compatible aligns the refresh timing of the monitor with whatever your frame rate is, eliminating tearing and stutter.

Why is 144Hz/165Hz not switched on automatically?

Safety and compatibility defaults: OSes and GPU drivers might choose some default “mode” (60Hz being a common choice) that is more likely to just work across monitors, cables, KVMs, adapters and docks you may plug into.

Bandwidth limits are real: The “available” refresh rates depend on resolution and color depth, HDR settings, and the exact port, cable and adapter chain. If the link can’t support the mode, the OS may hide it or default down to 60Hz.

Monitor firmware and OSD settings: Many monitors include an OSD setting that must be enabled, an “overclock” for 165Hz, a DisplayPort version toggle, or Adaptive-Sync/FreeSync toggle.

Multi-monitor constraints: Mirroring/duplicating displays can necessitate a shared mode that both displays support for mirroring purposes. This is usually 60Hz.

Power/battery features: Laptops may default to lower refresh rates to preserve battery run time. Windows Dynamic Refresh Rate (DRR) will also change it based on primary/secondary and what you’re doing.

Driver/app-specific: Some games default to 60Hz in borderless windowed mode, or maintain a separate refresh rate setting in app separate from the system setting.

Before you change things: a double-check (to save you time)

1. Check the monitor’s max refresh rate at your resolution in the manual/spec sheet (some panels do 165Hz only at certain resolutions).
2. Check your physical connection: Use the monitor’s highest-capability port (often DisplayPort on PC monitors; some monitors only support full refresh rate on one HDMI port).
3. Try to avoid “unknowns” in the chain: Take out adapters, docks, capture devices, splitters, KVM switches, etc. to figure out where the problem lies. Connect monitor → GPU directly.
4. Open the monitor OSD and check for Adaptive-Sync/FreeSync, DisplayPort version setting, HDMI mode (some have a compatibility toggle), and “refresh” settings for “Overclock” or similar.
5. Update GPU drivers from NVIDIA/AMD/Intel and reboot once after changes.
6. If you’re mirroring displays (Duplicate), try changing to Extend and allow each monitor to be set at individual refresh rates.

How do I enable 144Hz/165Hz on Windows 11 or Windows 10?

Windows allows you to pick the refresh rate per display (how cool is that) in Advanced display. What options you see depends on what the monitor thinks it is and what the connection supports.

1. Right-click the desktop → Display settings (or go through Settings).
2. Select System → Display.
3. Select the right monitor if you have more than one.
4. Choose Advanced display.
5. Find “Choose a refresh rate” and choose 144Hz, 165Hz or whatever is highest.
6. Hit apply/close. If the screen blanks but recovers, Windows may be reverting for you—try the next lower refresh rate instead.

If you’re on a laptop: check for Dynamic Refresh Rate (DRR) features

Some laptops will support Dynamic Refresh Rate (DRR) in Windows 11, meaning they will flip between low and high refresh rates as you use them, with the aim of delivering as smooth a user experience as possible while trying to preserve battery life. If you enable this feature and you persistently fail to hit refresh on the particular game or app you wish to test, try with DRR disabled and see if you get a different result.

NVIDIA: set refresh rate (and VRR/G-SYNC) from NVIDIA Control Panel

1. Open NVIDIA Control Panel
2. Click Display, then Change resolution
3. Select your monitor.
4. Choose the Refresh rate (144Hz/165Hz).
5. Optional (for VRR): Display → Set up G-SYNC then enable G-SYNC if your monitor supports it, and choose whether this applies to fullscreen or windowed + fullscreen.

AMD: check refresh rate and display settings in Radeon Software

For many Radeon setups, going directly to Windows Advanced display should be the fastest method for setting your refresh rate.

Devices settings: Enable FreeSync, Enhanced Sync, and make custom resolutions if necessary

Radeon Software is typically where you adjust things like FreeSync (VRR), Enhanced Sync, and (if necessary) create custom display modes when a monitor supports a mode, but it isn’t exposed by default.

Intel graphics: enable VRR in Windows if supported

If your monitor supports VRR, and your system supports it, Windows will give you a “Variable refresh rate” option in graphics settings. This is different from setting a fixed refresh rate like 144Hz—VRR means matching the timing of refreshes to the timing of rendering frames while staying within a supported range.

1. Open Settings in Windows.
2. Navigate to System → Display → Graphics (or sometimes Graphics settings). This will be to give your Intel graphics relevant settings.
3. Find Default graphics settings (the wording might be different depending on your version of Windows).
4. Enable Variable refresh rate (if available).Enjoy your smoother experience!

How to enable 144Hz/165Hz on macOS (including with external monitors)

The way you set refresh rate (and variable) is slightly different depending on Mac capabilities (models vary greatly), the monitor in question, and what kind of cable/adapter you’re using to connect the two. You may see a section for Adaptive Sync, and a “Variable” option available.

1. Open System settings.
2. Go to Displays.
3. Select the display to set the refresh on (important if you have multiple displays).

→ set the refresh rate you need. If it’s supported you’ll get input handled correctly!

Open Refresh Rate and choose 144Hz/165Hz if it’s available.

5. If your Mac and display support Adaptive Sync, try selecting “Variable” (or “ProMotion” on Apple displays) when appropriate.

How to enable 144Hz/165Hz on Linux (GNOME, KDE, and X11 tools)

Linux user interface environments generally expose refresh rate in display settings—if your GPU driver, compositor (Wayland/X11), and monitor link support the mode. If the GUI is uncooperative in applying the refresh rate, command-line tools can be employed (especially on X11).

GNOME (common on Ubuntu/Fedora): change refresh rate in Displays

Open Settings and search for Displays.

Select the correct monitor in the preview.

Set the Refresh rate to 144Hz/165Hz (if available).

Click Apply, then confirm “ Keep Changes” once you see it working.If 144 isn’t available, see if 165 is (or set highest listed), and check the monitor is reporting this as well.

Don’t forget in-game settings (the common 60Hz trap)

• Check that game display mode. Fullscreen Exclusive, for example often exposes refresh rate options more reliably than Borderless Windowed (depends on a game by game and OS by OS basis).
• Ensure Games refresh rate. Many games feature a separate “Refresh Rate” selector, that may remain at 60 even when Windows is set to 144/165.
• Look for frame caps. Lock that is showing up on the Launcher or Settings of a game? An FPS cap of 60, “Half refresh rate”, or “in game V-Sync” can make a 165Hz monitor feel like a 60Hz one.
• If you’re using VRR (G-SYNC/FreeSync), double check that it’s enabled on the monitor OSD and in the GPU control panel, and check a game with an uncapped frame rate, or properly capped to see if it works!

How to check that you’re definitely running 144Hz/165Hz

1. Verify in your OS. Windows “Advanced display” shows the current refresh rate, and check on macOS Displays shows the refresh rate selected.
2. Check the monitor. Many have an “Information” page on the OSD that shows current resolution and Hz.
3. Use a browser check. Load up TestUFO’s refresh rate test, and wait for it to run for 30+ seconds for a proper reading.
4. (Optionally) validate in-game – overlay an FPS / Hz type display (Steam, Xbox Game Bar, GPU overlay) and check frame pacing looks good at higher refresh.

Troubleshooting: when 144Hz/165Hz isn’t listed (or won’t stick)

Common mistakes to avoid (quick wins)

• Believing the included cable supports max refresh at max resolution (sometimes yes, sometimes no).
• Using an HDMI adapter/dock and expecting the same refresh rate as direct DisplayPort connection.
• Leaving displays in Duplicate/Mirror mode and being mystified as to why everything is governed by the “lowest common” snap-shot.
• Activating HDR, 10-bit colour, or colour-heavy settings and not realising that could dumb-down the maximum “advertised” refresh rate at that resolution on certain links.
• Changing Windows refresh rate, but forgetting that the game itself has its own refresh rate selector.
• Trying to “exert” 165Hz via custom resolutions but without a means to revert if

The leap from 144Hz to 165Hz is small. If 165Hz is truly a genuine overclock mode that comes with flicker, a black screen, or instability, then 144Hz remains the better real world choice. 143.98 vs. 144Hz; What You Should Know: Some monitors will report timings such as 143.98Hz, rather than the normal 144Hz (or 59.94Hz rather than 60Hz for video), and in practice, it’s quite normal to see this behaviour. In practice this makes no practical difference, and is visually indistinguishable from a “proper” 144Hz mode, and is instead a by-product of the timing being fractional. It’s the stability of the refresh rate and smooth motion, rather than the rounding up that matters. Do I need DisplayPort for 144/165Hz? Ideally, yes. DisplayPort is often the most reliable path to high refresh rate ULTRA PC gaming monitors. HDMI capability varies dramatically from monitor model to monitor model, and by which port version is being used, and adaptors/docks can further cut down which modes are supported. If I enable 165Hz, will I automatically get 165FPS? No. A refresh rate is purely a display setting and FPS will depend upon the game and your GPU/CPU performance overall. The higher refresh rate primarily allows the game itself to have smoother motion when your system can render the frames quickly and consistently. Should I enable VRR (FreeSync/G-SYNC Compatible)? In most cases, if your monitor supports it, and your GPU does, it’s worth trying in gaming as it can reduce tearing and stutter that happens when FPS goes up and down. Some odd setups can flicker on menus, and have odd behaviour in specific games, so test if need be redisplay. Why does my refresh drop after enabling HDR or 10bit colour?

Q: Can switching to a higher refresh rate make my internet slower?

A: No, but a higher color depth and/or HDR can increase the bandwidth requirements, which means you might be able to select a lower maximum refresh rate for the resolution you want to use—dependent on the monitor, the cable, the port, and probably a bunch of other stuff.

Q: My screen just goes black after I’ve tried switching to 165Hz / whatever. Help!?

A: Give it a good few seconds! Many OSes will revert to the previous refresh rate after a timeout if you don’t confirm your choice. If it’s not reverting and you can’t wait, try restarting and holding SHIFT to load in Safe Mode, or temporarily connecting a second display and reverting the setting. (If the OS is still in the process of loading in the background, that could be happening, too, and then it’ll show back up when you connect another display and revert.) After this, try the next lowest refresh rate (e.g., 144Hz instead of 165Hz) and make sure you’re using a valid cable/port path for the new refresh rate.