Low FPS checklist: settings, drivers, power plan, and thermals

Use this practical checklist to troubleshoot low FPS on a Windows gaming PC or laptop—starting with the biggest settings wins, then moving through drivers, Windows power modes, and thermal throttling.

Do check: Starting points

By the time someone is frustrated enough to ask for help, they want answers, and they want them now. Slow it down, and do steps in order. Get overexposed in the diagnostics. Reproduce the problem in the same spot / benchmark, then change ONE thing at a time to understand what does and doesn’t help your situation.

  1. If you have an FPS cap, look for it first! Via V-Sync, or frame limiter, and especially if you have an “eco” power mode (Radeon Chill/stuff like that).
  2. If you still dropping FPS? Drop the big FPS hitters first. Resolution/render scale, ray tracing, and shadows are usually the biggest. View distance is an FPS eater too.
  3. Check if there’s an update available for your GPU driver! Definitely update! And if you’ve switched GPUs switching so many times or crashing/cold booting over and over, you’d do well to do a clean install of your driver.
  4. Swap that Windows Power mode to Best performance, and make sure it’s plugged in if you see that option!
  5. Watch those thermals and clocks! If you’re pushing those temps to their limits, your clocks might drop, and you’re throttling. Fix your cooling, take a look at the airflow in your case. A 60Hz monitor that supports 144Hz will not lower GPU FPS, but it will be choppier and make you think the issue lies elsewhere. Windows lets you see/change your refresh rate under Settings > System > Display > Advanced display.
  6. Disable frame cap that may be on. Check for in-game FPS limiter, V-Sync, driver level cap, battery-saver mode, and “quiet/eco” profiles.
  7. If you happen to be on AMD, check whether you have Radeon Chill toggled on (it intentionally regulates/caps FPS to save power).
  8. If you’re on a laptop on battery power, plug it in, and test again—many laptops will aggressively throttle CPU/GPU power limits while on battery, and this may look like a mysterious low FPS.

Tip: If your FPS is stuck on suspiciously round numbers (30, 60, 90, 120) treat it as a cap until proven otherwise. Remove caps first, then optimize quality settings.

Step 2) In-game settings checklist (highest impact first)

Again, if you’re actively troubleshooting, don’t start willy-nilly with 15 settings to tweak. Tweak 4-6 things that look like they’d have the biggest impact first, then go use the game settings for fine tuning.

In-game settings to lower first (biggest visual cost)
Setting What to try first Why it helps Common mistake
Resolution / Render scale Lower render scale or use an upscaler (DLSS/FSR/XeSS) in “Quality” mode Directly reduces pixel workload Lowering resolution but leaving a heavy ray tracing preset on
Ray tracing Turn off RT or drop it one preset RT often costs a lot of performance per step Enabling RT + ultra shadows + max view distance all at once
Shadows Drop from Ultra to High/Medium Shadows can be expensive and scale poorly Keeping ultra shadows while trying to “fix FPS” via tiny AA tweaks
View distance / crowd density Reduce one notch Reduces CPU and GPU scene complexity Only lowering GPU-heavy settings when you’re actually CPU-limited
Anti-aliasing Avoid the heaviest AA mode; prefer temporal AA + upscaler when available Some AA options are costly at high resolutions Turning AA off completely and blaming shimmer/aliasing on “bad GPU”
Textures Keep high textures if VRAM is sufficient; lower only if you see VRAM pressure/stutter Textures affect VRAM more than raw FPS Dropping textures hoping for big FPS gains (often minimal)

Quick “baseline preset” for troubleshooting

  • Set resolution to native, then set render scale to 80–90% (or enable DLSS/FSR/XeSS in Quality).
  • Turn ray tracing Off (just for the test).
  • Set shadows to Medium.
  • Set view distance / crowd density to High (not Ultra).
  • Turn motion blur Off (preference; not usually an FPS fix, but helps clarity while testing).

If that baseline doesn’t improve FPS much, the problem is more likely drivers, power limits, thermals, or a CPU bottleneck than a single “too-high” visual setting.

Step 3) Windows graphics settings that actually matter (especially for borderless/windowed)

On Windows 11, borderless/windowed performance can depend on Windows graphics features and per-app GPU selection—particularly on laptops with integrated + discrete graphics.

  1. Enable “Optimizations for windowed games” (Windows 11): Settings > System > Display > Graphics, then under Default settings toggle Optimizations for windowed games On, and restart the game.
  2. Force the game to use the high-performance GPU (if you have more than one GPU): Settings > System > Display > Graphics > find/add the game > Options > choose High performance, then Save.
  3. If performance gets worse after enabling windowed optimizations for a specific title, turn it off just for that game in the same Graphics options menu and retest.

Note: If you play in exclusive fullscreen, “windowed optimizations” may not change anything. It’s still worth testing if you use borderless/windowed.

Step 4) Drivers checklist (GPU first, then platform)

Outdated or corrupted GPU drivers can cause low FPS, stutter, crashes, or the game using the wrong GPU. Update your drivers early in your troubleshooting, of course, but do it with intent so you can roll them back fairly easily.

  • NVIDIA: update (and maybe a performance power mode)
    Update to a current driver using NVIDIA’s update mechanism (or their app/tooling if they’ve set your driver up that way). If you’re seeing clock speeds dropping incorrectly, and you’ve got low FPS, test NVIDIA Control Panel > Manage 3D settings > Power management mode > Prefer maximum performance (this is a global or per-game option). On some supported notebooks, NVIDIA Control Panel may have notebook power modes (Performance/Balanced/Quiet) that can directly influence your gaming performance.
  • AMD: check for updates and remove FPS caps like Chill when diagnosing
    Under AMD Radeon Settings/Software, you can see your current driver version, and check for updates. If Radeon Chill is enabled (globally or per-game), it can cap/regulate your FPS based on how much you’re moving around. Disable it during troubleshooting, then enable it later if you want that power savings.
  • Intel (integrated or Arc): update the right way
    The easiest way to scan and install Intel driver updates is usually via Intel Driver & Support Assistant (Intel DSA). Many laptops have their PC maker (OEM) customize graphics drivers, though. If you’ve recently installed Intel generic drivers and they won’t install or are behaving strangely, look for your OEM drivers first on their support site.
Tip: Roll back one level and wait if a brand-new driver made one game worse. A driver update can help fix one title while making another worse. This is especially true around major game launches.

If your GPU/CPU is fine but your FPS performance seems unexpectedly low, particularly after Windows updates or when running on battery, power settings are a top suspect. Windows’ various power modes can prioritize efficiency over speed, and some systems restrict performance when a custom plan is active.

  1. Set your Windows Power mode to Best performance: Start > Settings > System > Power & battery > Power mode > Best performance.
  2. If you see no option to change your Power mode at all, then switch to a standard power plan: Control Panel > System and Security > Power Options and choose a standard plan, such as Balanced. That might simply re-enable the Power mode control seen above!
  3. Laptop users; make sure you are plugged in and set to use your manufacturers performance part of the profile (often called something like “Performance” or “Performance/Turbo/Extreme”) and retest before changing anything else.
  4. If you have NVIDIA hardware and suspect you are being downclocked aggressively, test “Prefer maximum performance” for that game in NVIDIA Control Panel (then retest thermals—more power can mean more heat).
Warning: “Best performance” can make your system noisier and hotter (particularly if you have a very thin laptop). Watch out for your system getting very hot immediately and then FPS dropping again—it may be that you’re starting to thermal throttle, making the next step relevant.

Step 6) Detect throttling, then fix the root cause.

The CPU or GPU reduces its clock speeds to avoid damaging itself when temperatures reach a certain point—that’s thermal throttling. The good news is you don’t have to worry about your hardware turning into a molten puddle—you can unstick it.

Result can look like: FPS starts fine, then drops gradually (or all of a sudden) and stays low until the thing cools off. Intel refers to throttling as dropping clock speed when temp exceeds the fabled processor limit (TJ Max/Tcase), in order to avoid melting anything.

How to confirm you’re throttling (the fast way)

  1. Load a scene where you suspect your system might be throttling, then load open any performance overlay (game, Steam, GPU software, whatever) which shows you GPU/CPU clocks and temperatures. (We have a cool software tool for doing this, hint hint)
  2. Run that same basic scene for say 5-10 minutes.
  3. If temperatures climb to a ceiling and clocks fall to bottom (and FPS follows), you’re throttling.
  4. If temperatures are okay, but clocks are low, look at power limits in step 5 or background load in step 7.

Fixes that usually do the trick (desktop and laptop)

  • Clean dust from intakes, fans, heatsinks (compressor but take care not to use air strong enough to overspin fans; hold them for overblow).
  • Improve airflow: move the off carpet, give the case more elbow room, tidier cables, check fans are spinning right and all that.
  • Basics for laptops: Elevate rear for better intake, don’t use on soft surfaces, consider a cooling pad if you think your model can use it.
  • If comfortable doing so: reseat the cooler on desktop and replace the thermal paste. If it seems obvious, do it, because it most definitely will help. All repasting is a laptop cop out however, and the practice is largely scripty by model—all sorts of strange flats inside that frighten me. If unsure, just go get some lumps placed by a dude at the repair shop.

Step 7) The quick checks people miss (that actually cause FPS fluctuations)

  • Background load: browser tabs, game launchers downloading updates, RGB/monitoring utilities you don’t need running while testing.
  • Windows updates and reboots: If Windows just updated then reboot once before running your tests again (pending tasks can affect performance).
  • Storage: Games on a near-full drive or a slower spinning HDD can hitch like crazy – feeling a lot like “low FPS”. Ensure there is sufficient room on the drive and prefer SSDs for modern titles.
  • Fullscreen vs. Borderless: Try switching mode. On some systems weirdly, borderless does better with Windows optimizations for fullscreen/windowed applications, and on other systems it may be better to use exclusive fullscreen.
  • VRAM/RAM Pressure: If you crank textures up over your GPU’s VRAM limit you may get weird stutter and low 1% lows. Either reduce textures or close down background applications.

A repeatable flow to troubleshoot perf issues (so you’re not just chasing your tail)

  1. Baseline: Run your test and save FPS AND temps/clocks.
  2. Remove caps: Disable V-Sync/frame limiters/Radeon Chill and re-test.
  3. Big settings: Reduce resolution scale and/or disable RT and retest.
  4. Windows graphics: Ensure High performance GPU is selected and enable windowed optimizations if you are using borderless and retest.
  5. Drivers: Re-install/update GPU driver and retest.
  6. Power mode: Set Windows Power mode to Best performance and retest (plug in laptops).
  7. Thermals: If there is throttling, ensure cooling is fixed and retest.
  8. Only once you’ve done the above: Tweak quality sliders back up to the highest setting you can maintain at the target FPS.

Symptom-to-fix cheat sheet

“FPS known to be low or CPU known to be maxed” frustrate the heck out of me. But, thankfully, not every game is difficult to drive. ABCDEFGhY can accommodate most gamers, so let’s take a little shortcut to the tweak that will solve it!

Common low-FPS patterns and the quickest next step
What you see Most likely cause Fastest next step How to verify
FPS locked at 60/120 dead on Frame limiter or V-Sync, driver cap, or AMD Chill Disable caps for now FPS changes right away after toggling
FPS fine at first, but drops after minutes, I think Thermal throttling Check temps + clocks. Improve airflow/cooling See temperatures hit a raging ceiling, clocks drop off
Low FPS only if on battery WORSE OFF plugged in to charge Power limits Plug in / set Best performance FPS jumps when plugged in / performance mode turned on
Laptop/iGPUs that shouldn’t need an nVidia card will be ordered to use a real dGPU Windows Graphics preference: set High performance GPU overlay logos / bars /spds pops up, dGPus signal tonight
Low FPS in city meets crowd, only regular pedal-fullness Could be a CPU bottleneck Lowering view distance / lowering crowds or traffic preferences. Monitor to find CPU maxing out while the GPU is idling

FAQ: Common low-FPS troubleshooting

Q: “Why low fps and my GPU is not at 99% usage?”

That is what is generally known as, either a CPU bottleneck, a frame cap (such as V-Sync or framerate limiter), or a separate power limit (or thermal limit). The cheapest first thing is to temporarily remove the caps. Then check CPU clocks, temperatures, and per-core usage in a constant test scene. If one or two CPU threads are maxed out but the GPU isn’t, drop some CPU-heavy settings like view distance/crowds and close background apps.

Q: Should I be using Windows “Best performance” power mode for gaming?

For troubleshooting: absolutely yes, it’s a great test to find if a common power limiter might be reducing your FPS. For daily use: It depends; for specific laptops this can increase heat and fan noise, which is no great for gaming. If you do and see your FPS drop after a few minutes, you may be trading a power limit for a thermal limit—in other words, try improving your laptop’s cooling/airflow before anything else.

Q: Can AMD Radeon Chill give me low FPS?

Yes. This is applied to save power by regulating frame rates with frame caps that dynamically change with on-screen movement. It’s useful for getting lower heat/noise, but it will absolutely look like “low FPS” if it’s unexpectedly enabled. Disable while diagnosing, then intentionally enable back day to day with your minimum and maximum FPS setting.

Q: If I just updated my GPU driver and my performance got worse, what should I do?

Roll back to whatever stable driver you were using before (or other), then wait for the next driver update. Keep the test method the same so you can confirm the change is driver related, of course and not a new patch, a new background app or different game scene.

Q: Thermal throttling, how do I know im doing it?

Look for consistent ceiling temperatures then a change or drop in clock speeds with lower FPS. Throttling is designed to reduce hot hardware to keep it that way. Use any overlay you trust that shows temps and clocks, run a 5 to 10 test then watch if clocks drop with increasing temperatures.